Day 3: Masbate (Bicol Region)

15 May 2009

The butanding interaction tour ends by around 12 noon. From the beach, we (the group that shared a boat with me consisted of a pair of Filipino newlyweds, a German couple and a Frenchman) head back to the tourism office. The Frenchman asks me if he and his friend (definitely not his compatriot but certainly another European) can go with me to Pilar, the town next to Donsol where boats going to Masbate are stationed. From there, the guys will take another boat going to Cebu this time where they hope to have another amazing diving experience. We agree to meet in the plaza after an hour and a half as I will have to go back to my lodging place to take a shower and pack my things.

As instructed by Lola Erna, I simply leave the key to my room on the bed and close the door. I hop onto a tricyle and tell the driver that I'm going to Pilar. I had expected to be driven to the plaza where I had seen a couple of Pilar-bound jeepneys the day I came to Donsol, but to my great surprise, I was driven to what the driver now tells me is the terminal of jeepneys going not only to Pilar but also back to Legazpi. As much as I want to meet those guys, I can't go anymore because I don't know how to get to the plaza. I figure that the best thing to do is to take the first available jeepney going to Pilar because I have to catch the last trip going to Masbate.

(It was only the day before, when I was on my way to Donsol, that I realized that I could go to Masbate, after all. While still at the Araneta Center station in Quezon City, where I took a bus going to Bicol, I saw an advertisement of a direct trip via RORO (roll-on, roll-off) in Pilar to Masbate. At that time, I still didn't know where Pilar was and how I could get there from Donsol. But as soon as I found out that those towns were adjacent to each other and Lola Erna supplied me with info on the schedule of the boat trips, I immediately contacted a cousin in Masbate and told her about my visit.)

I reach the Pilar pier at least an hour earlier than the 4 p.m. schedule of the so-called fast craft (fare: PhP396). When I get to my front-row seat after about an hour of waiting for boarding time, I see the guys rushing towards the boat. I decide to just say hi to them when the boat reaches its destination two hours after.

"We waited for you," they declare as I finally meet up with the guys. I explain what had happened that prevented me from showing up at our meeting place, and I think they saw my point. I just hope that they had a fantastic time in Cebu and that they will visit more places in the country. Wow Philippines to the max!

Meanwhile, I look for the terminal of vans going to Placer, my parents' hometown, and finds out from the security guards of the Masbate City pier that the last trip of the day has just left. I'm advised to take a tricyle that will drive me to a place called crossing because I might still get a ride there. There's a van, all right, but it will only go as far as two towns from Placer so I decide to just spend the night in a hotel. Lo and behold! One of the guys at the gasoline station announces that there's a van going to Placer but the driver will ask for an extra charge since it's going to be a special trip. I find it reasonable enough so off I go to Placer.

This is not my first time in the province. I'd been here a long time ago but I was too young then to retain even a vague memory of that visit.

At past 9 p.m., I get to the site where my cousin has asked, through my phone, the driver to drop me off. I feel apologetic for arriving late. My only communication (since yesterday) with Kit has been limited to text messages and I can no longer recall the last time her mom - my mom's younger sister - or her dad had visited us at home in Marikina City so I don't know what to expect from them. It's heartening then to see a spread of pambisita Filipino dishes set on the dinner table that they warmly share with me.

My grandmother, who recently turned 89, is in her room ready to retire but she gladly, albeit quietly, receives me. We hardly talk as she barely speaks Tagalog or Filipino, the national language, and I'm ignorant of Cebuano, the Visayan language spoken this side of the province. I also don't recall her visiting us in Manila (or Metro Manila, the National Capital Region where Marikina belongs to) so if I'm not mistaken, this is only the second time that we have seen each other.

Lola Puring had a stroke a few years ago that impaired her ability to walk but that doesn't make her rely on anybody's assistance, except for her cane, when she moves around. While descending the stairs, for instance, she simply holds on to the railing with dignified confidence. Looking at her makes me feel that getting to her age - and beyond - may not be a bad idea, after all:

Day 2: Sorsogon (Bicol Region)

14 March 2009

I check out of Hotel Rex in Legazpi City, Albay at 10:45 a.m. with a clear plan in mind: I will take a tricyle to the bus terminal where I got off yesterday and where I can get a ride to Donsol, my next destination. But as I step out of the hotel and onto the main road, a jeepney halts in front of me and I instinctively ask the driver if he will pass by the bus terminal. Soliciting an affirmative response, I get on the jeepney and, about 20 minutes later, the driver gestures to a couple of parked buses at the side of road and tells me that those vehicles are going to Sorsogon, the nearby province where Donsol is located.

It turns out that in this other bus terminal, only jeepneys ply to Donsol (fare: PhP60). I take the lone available spot in the four-seater space in-between the driver's seat and the regulation area for 10-plus passengers. I delight in the lush scenery and the cool breeze but after a while I start to worry about not knowing exactly where I'll get off so I decide to just play it by ear. Dulo na pala ang Donsol! I still feel unsure, though, as I survey the sleepy town because it doesn't look like a place where tourists flock to for close encounters with whale sharks or butanding. As often suggested in my guide book (Donsol is not part of the 26-day itinerary maybe because it only became a popular tourist destination after the book's second edition was published in 1999), I decide to look for the tourism office to ask for advice. I find out from the townsfolks that it's located inside the municipal hall, which is just walking distance from the plaza. From there, I learn that I have to go to Dancalan, a baranggay I think, which is accessible by tricyle (fare: PhP40 to cover for the tricyle's return trip to the plaza).

I finally heave a sigh of relief when I reached Dancalan. The office of the Butanding Interaction Tour provider is efficiently ran by an accommodating and informed staff. Lola Erna even arranges for my lodging at the accredited home-stay that she manages (the handful resorts in the area only have rooms and cottages for groups) as I opt to spend the night in Dancalan so I can get on the first boat tomorrow morning -- the best time for whale interaction.

I pick up a couple of brochures from the tourism office, and I'm glad to find a map of Sorsogon in one of them.

I'm doubly glad to have this view from the doorstep of my two-bed room (PhP800 without TV and air-con):

This turns into a magical place during an evening river cruise (fee: PhP200) as countless fireflies converge on treetops and the sky is blanketed with stars of all sizes.

The magic continues the following day, when I come face to face with a whale shark at my first jump into the water during our interaction tour (boat rental: PhP3,500 for a maximum of 7 passengers; registration fee: PhP:100). As our guide instructs us to look down, I suddenly see the butanding staring at me. I get startled initially because its mouth is humongous, but remembering what our guide has told us about its useless teeth, I calm down and start enjoying the experience that lasts in a heartbeat but leaves a lasting impression. I should learn how to dive to thoroughly enjoy the interaction the next time around. Yes, I'll be back again someday.

(I see Mayon Volcano even while whale watching.)

Day 1: Albay (Bicol Region)

13 May 2009

It's been 10 hours since the bus left the Araneta Center station in Cubao, Quezon City but it hasn't reached its destination: Legazpi City. The reason for the delay, I think, is the numerous stopovers that seem to be much more than the usual. Meanwhile, I await the sight of the Mayon Volcano, which is, of course, the main reason why I'm here. I stir as I see an image of what looks like a mountain shrouded by clouds. Pero bakit hindi naman perfect cone? But before I can wallow in disappointment, a similar image appears from afar and as the clouds move away from the mountain, the famous perfect cone is revealed. Suddenly it doesn't matter anymore if the trip is taking two hours more than it should.

At 9 a.m., the bus finally makes it to the terminal. Ignoring the small crowd of men offering to carry the passengers' baggage and take them to a waiting vehicle that will drive them to their destination, I go straight to the queue of tricyles, which sadly do little for me in avoiding getting gypped. I'm still charged a lot more than the usual fare but at least I easily get to Hotel Rex, the recommendation of the book, "Twenty-six Days Around the Philippines." Sensing my hesitation in checking in, the driver assures me that a lot of travelers stay there as well. As I walk into the reception area manned by two affable female attendants, all my reservations vanish. I tell them why I choose to stay at Hotel Rex; they can't believe of its citation in the book.

Since I wasn't able to really sleep throughout the 12-hour bus ride, which is actually normal for someone who can't get some shuteye however long the trip is unless thoroughly tired, I decide to spend more time in my Php500-a-night room that has two single beds, a TV and electric fan (I only have to pay 300 pesos more for the other room with an air-conditioning unit but I opt to feel the breeze that gets in through the large windows). By 3 p.m., I'm off to see the sights but not without asking for directions and tips (e.g. jeepney fare) from the reception staff.

My first stop is the Cagsawa Ruins Park, located in Daraga, Albay, which offers an unobstructed view of the famed volcano:

It's true what they say about the majesty of Mayon but I think it's best appreciated and experienced during a climb. I may never do that so I find utter satisfaction of having my photo taken with the Mayon in the background. There are kids and adults offering their photographic services like making it appear that the tourist is touching the peak of the volcano, which I balk at but I still have to pay a couple of pesos to a kid who takes my "normal" photo with the volcano.

For the longest time since Mayon Volcano had its worst eruption on Feb. 1, 1814 that had its flowing lava engulfing the Cagsawa Church along with the parishioners who took refuge there, the church belfry -- the only thing that survived the tragedy -- was made the iconic symbol of nature's wrath. Now there's a literal icon that stands guard near the gate of the park:

Afterwards, I try to find the old existing church back in Legazpi City that my friend Che, a native of Naga City, which is about two hours away from Legazpi City, had suggested that I visit. Unfortunately, she had forgotten the name of the church but I think she's referring to the Albay Cathedral, which is, like in most provinces and towns across the nation, situated near the provincial or town hall and plaza that remains the center of activities.

Thankfully, I'm successful at following Che's other suggestion that is to dine at Small Talk even if I just had sizzling bangus with pinangat for dinner at a nearby eatery. I order laing pizza, which I imagine to be even yummier without pineapple bits, and pili pie.

Mission: Bicol and Visayas Regions

Since successfully touring the first four sites in the 26-day-around-the-Philippines itinerary in late February to early March 2006, I immediately set my sights to its Bicol leg as I've long been wanting to experience the majesty of Mayon Volcano, which is touted as the world's perfect cone. Initially, I had scheduled it for May of that year but I had to move it to a later date as I had gone back to Sagada in April upon the prodding of my friend Ellen (her husband Don and another friend, Rosema, completed our group). My Mayon trip had to be postponed once again as Bahrain had suddenly beckoned and I decided to give it a go in September.

Though I had put my Mayon date on the back burner, I'd often think about it and I'd always end up planning to extend the trip from Bicol, which is found in the southeastern end of Luzon, to the Visayas and even to Mindanao, just as designed in the book. (Luzon, Visayas and Mindanao are the major island groups in the Philippines, an archipelago consisting of 7,107 islands.) The question was when.

I got my answer last April, when I decided to come home immediately so I could still travel before the rainy season kicks in. But as fate would have it, I had to let two typhoons pass before I could finally hit the road on May 12, 2009.

As suggested in the book, I took the night trip so that I would arrive in Legazpi, Albay at the crack of dawn. But instead of the 7 p.m. trip cited in the book, I had to take the 8:45 p.m. schedule of Isarog Line Express (fare: PhP800). Before 9 p.m., the bus left the Araneta Center station and my new journey began. Nevermind if my own itinerary had not been finalized yet and I still didn't know how many days I'd be away. What I was certain of was my purpose for each place that I could only visualize going to with the aid of this map:

Around the Philippines in 26 Days?

Most people I know love to travel. They look forward either to visiting popular destinations or to discovering hideaways off the beaten track. I used to belong solely to the first category until my friend Veron introduced me to Carlos M. Libosada's "Twenty-six Days Around the Philippines," which she found very useful in navigating her jaunts while she was on out-of-town assignments. For instance, she marvelled at how she got to see a tarsier in Bohol in the late '90s by simply following the author's advice to look for Mang Lito, who took care some of these tiny primates.

Convinced, I got a copy from Bookmark, also the book's publisher, in 1993, and fell in love with it as well. I told myself that I would likewise travel around my home country though not necessarily in 26 days. I even kept a Wow Philippines promotional material in the book's inner back cover's pocket to aid me in locating the sites that I'd someday visit.

Have Bag, Will Travel

Years ago, I bought this bag:

Yep, that's how I usually pack for a trip in a tropical country like the Philippines, where I hail from. I have in the outside pockets travel essentials like a jacket or raincoat, an umbrella, a pair of rubber slippers and some plastic bags which come in handy along the way. When I have to get on a plane, though, I make it a point that the pockets are empty.

Notice the locks? Wherever my destination is and however I'll get there, I always have my backpack locked --- otherwise I'll get neurotic worrying that someone will open it and take some of my stuff or will put some illegal stuff in there that the authorities will discover as I pass through inspection. Well, it has happened to other people so it can also happen to me, right?

I just can't remember the first place I took this backpack with me. Was it Metro Cebu, Club Paradise in Palawan, or Vigan and the other sites in Ilocos? Definitely not on my first trip abroad (Malaysia and Singapore in April 2005) because I used a huge suitcase which, my friend Paz chided, made the impression that I won't be returning home anymore.

But I can vividly recall carrying this pack on my back while I trekked Baguio, Sagada and Banaue in 2006. I thought then that I looked like a typical backpacker. Now I still feel like a typical backpacker.